This will leave the vane potentiometer threaded shaft protruding through the centre of a small plastic disc recessed into the module. In any case has some good ones.ġ/ Remove anemometer from whatever pole it is on.Ģ/ Carefully detach the cable from the pole attaching plastic semi-circle by wiggling it carefully free of the lugs.ģ/ Using the appropriate Allen (hex) key, remove both the vane and the cups from the anemometer module.Ĥ/ Remove the small screw which attaches the anemometer module to the upper part of the bent aluminium pole.ĥ/ Carefully pull the module away from the pole at the same time feeding the freed cable into the lower end to allow this to happen.Ħ/ Remove the nut and castellated washer from the vane end of the module. I have some images of the process but will try and describe it such that you don't need them. A jeweller's eyeglass or a magnifying glass might help too. You'll need pliers, screwdrivers, soldering iron with small tip, solder, craft knife, an ohmmeter, a magnet, a compass and shrink wrap. Just in case, I also replaced the tiny 47Ω chip resistors with metal film ones. Have a read of this to better understand the challenge you face: Reed switches are very fragile but, fortunately, also very cheap. The length is critical as the gap in the 'jaws' of the PCB is very small. They're both 220V 20W and only max 10.5mm. I use either REED SWITCH, 20W - KSK-1A35-1520 part SW02761 from CPC or part SW923 from Brimal in UK. Order some reed switches before you start. Do check you have a reed switch fault (permanently closed or open) before embarking on this. New anemometer c?$170 v reed switch a few pence/cents.
#WEATHERCAT ELDER RECESS HOW TO#
Having done this twice in the last 8 years and not found detail on how to do it, I thought it might be of interest.
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